*Disclaimer: I am not
a surfer, so don’t use this as a surfing lesson. ..and that is NOT me — YET!
As I watched the surfers in Hawaii, I wondered, “how do they
decide whether to ride the wave or dive into it”? Sometimes they see the swell, paddle like
hell, and just when you think they should stand up and shout, “COWABUNGA”, they
dive right into the smooth underbelly of the wave and live to see another
day. Other times, they stand up, yell
“COWABUNGA” and ride it like they own it.
“I’M KING OF THE WORLD”.
All right, I’ve never heard them actually yell “COWAGUNGA”
or “I’M KING OF THE WORLD”, but I know they are saying something in their
heads. Probably some combination of
swear words about your momma.
“Cowabunga”
is for baby boarders, or never-boarders, like me. . . It’s probably a “no” on
the “King of the World” shout out as well.
But, I digress.
The real question is, do you ride it or dive? Daily, if I have the sense and wherewithall,
I will ask myself, “Ride it or dive, Heather, which will it be”? If I am particularly ballsy, I will
ride. It is crazy scary up there, but
very exhilarating and worth the risk. If
the wave is too big for a rookie like me, I will dive and avoid the
bodily and/or mental harm. Sometimes I see
people that have chosen to ride, when they most certainly should have
dove. (Is that a word – dove?)
Obviously, I am not talking about surfing. There are sharks out there, for God’s
sake. And swimming is required. I’ve never seen a surfer with water
wings. That would be shameful. Even the sharks would be embarrassed for
me. They might just eat me out of pity
for the other surfers.
I am talking about daily forks in the road. Left or right. Yes or no.
Ride or dive?
Should I go ahead with my latest invention plan? I have a couple in my head. I’ve been diving, not riding. But, after my last birthday when the scales
have started tipping toward the latter part of my life, I’m thinking I need to
start riding that wave.
Should I get involved in my daughter’s latest friend
issue? Seems like an obvious dive, but I
am inclined to ride. Only a crazy person
would ride. I justify my meddling with the
fact I believe that I have so much I can tell her that would help. But, most times she doesn’t listen. If I ride, I am sure to be eaten by a shark. (The sharks, they are always circling in my
world.) Or worse, face her when my
advice goes wrong. If I paddle like
hell, then dive, it won’t be worth the energy I exert. In the end, it’s her wave;
I think I have to let her have it. No
diving or riding, just watching.
So, there it is -- a third choice. One that has taken me
many years to discover and embrace. Keep
my place in the water. Quietly paddle. Watch, breathe, wait. Some waves need to
be claimed by someone else while some waves are neither yours nor someone
else’s. They are just waves. Either way, there is no action required on my
part, except to still myself. Breathe. This approach is very tough for me, but
often the wisest. Those that do this might be the best surfers, the ones that
let some waves pass by. Even paddle out
of the way, to avoid it. When I am all
grown up, I want to be that kind of surfer. One that knows when it is time to
float on the board and enjoy the wave as it passes by. And maybe even learn a
thing or two from more experienced surfers.
I’ve heard they have some very attractive water wings these
days. I’m goin’ in! COWAGUNGA!

